Candy and the Circus Go Hand-in-Hand

Candy has been eaten since the earliest of times. Egyptians perfected a process whereby sweetmeats were made as early as 2000 B.C. In 1470, a Venetian candy maker learned to refine sugar obtained from the Far East. In America the colonists on the Atlantic Coast obtained sugar by tapping sugar maple trees with the help of the American Indian. The modern candy industry was born when sugar was used to make expensive confections, and today candy making is a multibillion-dollar industry. Most people have a sweet tooth and have a yen for candy.

Dan Rice, clown, circus owner (1846-1886) and so much more trouped prior to, during, and after the Civil War. Patrons at that time, including children, were no different than those of today - everyone loved confections, one of which was candy. During the Rice era local grocers or itinerants were known as the taffy men and the sugar plum men because of the wares they plied in the vicinity of the white tops. These vendors carried an odd contraption for boiling and blending molasses, sugar, and early essences of flavorings for such sweet things. (1)

The sugar plum man boiled "lump" sugar rather than molasses. This sugar had very coarse crystals about the size of a nail head and was similar to another later candy -- rock sugar candy. One vendor inserted a crude stick into the melted mass and a type of sucker was the result. (2)

Another candy sold at the circus, but not made there, was a brown stick candy, which had a hard brittle outer layer that encased a soft coconut center. "To circus goers of generations past, it was what the ice cream cone is today.” (3) It was always sold inside the tent and was commonly called the "circus pole." An excellent name, don't you agree?

There was a refreshment tent in those days, which at first had a canvas roof with no sidewalls. There were counters on three sides, where all sorts of goodies were for sale. Peanuts were roasted and popcorn popped under the protection of the tent, so the candy man, the popcorn vendor and the peanut vendor worked side by side, and all the pennies and nickels added up to a tidy sum at the end of the day. Sometimes there was a candy stand just inside the entrance to the big show where one could buy the circuses own candy bag, stuffed with candy, peanuts or popcorn. The candy was not made on the circus grounds after about 1860 because, as Kunzog says, "Paradoxical as it may seem, with the simpler petroleum distillate stove to supercede the wood heat, candy-making ... all but disappeared from the show grounds. The reason was not the new fuel, but the time and labor element. Candy-makers in all fair-sized communities now had mechanical equipment and could offer the circus concessionist whatever candies needed at a lower price than he could produce them.” (4)

Kunzog fails to give specific dates in his commentary on food items sold at the circus grounds and at the entrance to the performance, but leaves that important point to Stuart Thayer to ferret out the earliest recorded instance of a candy wagon with a circus. This occurred in 1841 when June, Titus, & Angevine drew up a privilege contract between the show and one Jacob Anthony. (5) Thayer relates that: "When the shows went to tents and wagons in the nineteenth century, candy wagons were included in the train, either show-owned or run by 'privilege men' [such as Anthony]. By the terms Anthony was allowed to travel with the company for the purpose of retailing confectionery, fruit, lemonade, etc. For this privilege he paid the show nine dollars a week. Oddly, if he could afford it, he was to pay ten dollars a week. The manager sold his horse and wagon to him and the terms of the payment for them were part of the contract." (6)

Circus proprietor, George S. Cole, relates that Aaron Turner's Circus sold candy at Potsdam, New York, as well as at other show dates during the season of 1849 and beyond. The Billboard account states: "The candy stand privilege was rented for one dollar a day. The privilege outfit consisted of a one-horse light wagon built cage fashion with a sunken bottom and about half of one side opened outward and formed a shelf for the layout, consisting of candy, ginger bread, lemonade, circus fans, etc. A man sat inside to wait on customers. No butcher worked on the seats and they had no outside stand. The candy wagon was placed inside the tent near the front door." (7)

In 1863, Den Stone, famous clown and circus equestrian, paid Mabie Bros. Circus $40 for the candy privilege; this was recorded at the end of the day on May 24th when Mabie exhibited at Ottawa, Illinois. This privilege was renewed at intervals during the remainder of the season as noted below:
May 31 Galesburg, Illinois, Sunday, no show $40.00 from Stone for candy privilege.
June 21 Iowa City, Iowa, Sunday, no show. Stone paid privilege fee.
June 22 Pella, Iowa, Day show. Stone paid fee.
July 18 Keosuzua, Iowa, Day show only. Stone paid privilege fee of $20.00.
July 25 Carthage, Illinois. Day show. Stone made privilege payment.
August 8 Rushville, Illinois, Stone paid fee.
August 18 St. Louis, Missouri, Stone paid candy privilege. Sunday, no show.
September 12 Grayville, Missouri, Day show, Stone paid privilege fee.
September 19 Evansville, Missouri, Day show, Stone paid privilege fee.
September 26 Loogoote, Missouri, Day show, Stone paid weekly privilege fee of $140.00.
October 10 Lexington, Indiana, Day show. Stone paid fee.

Burt Webster was employed as a candy butcher and sold candy, lemonade and cigars to patrons. Harry Buckley paid $1,000 for the side show privilege that season. (All Mabie Brothers data, courtesy of W. Gordon Yadon, 1999.)

Barnum & Bailey in their 1888 route books mention that Hagar & Henslow were the managers of the confectionery department. George Arlington was the superintendent of the show. Of course the first candy sold was not the package variety, that came into being sometime later.

The leasing of the candy privilege on all Ringling owned shows continued from Butch Parsons to the Miller brothers who operated the candy stands until the under canvas show closed in 1956.

One should be reminded that the sale of confections and other products on the seats was considered a nuisance from the earliest of times. Even Odell in his gigantic compilation, Annals of the New York Stage, reminded readers that similar objections were expressed about the circus in those days as well. Thayer points out that Cooper, Bailey & Company, in 1878, "decided to do away with seat vendors, no doubt as a reaction to such complaints" that the nuisance of selling created. "J. L. Hutchinson took over the privileges with the show in 1880, and he continued the practice of not allowing vending in the seats." Other shows evoked similar policies. These included the Barnum & London Circus of 1881 as well as Sells Brothers the same year. In spite of distaste for the candy butcher selling items on the seats, it continued outside the main tent and side show. In time the vending of confections on the seats returned to most circuses, but again in the 1990s Kenneth Feld of Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Circus re-instituted the ban. Not all circuses followed his lead.

It should be noted that candy wasn't the only item sold from a candy stand or wagon. In practicality, the candy wagon is an all-inclusive term, so one shouldn't be surprised to find a wide range of products sold from a candy wagon or stand, such as popcorn, balloons, fans, and trinkets of all sorts associated with candy stands.

Joe Bradbury in a Bandwagon article on the Gollmar Brothers Circus lists the inventory of that circus during the 1924-1925 season (9):
Candy Stands
7 Stock boxes $14.00 1 small ice box 5.00
1 hamburger box 5.00
1 hamburger griddle 5.00
1 hamburger box complete 10.00
16 counter jacks 16.00
7-10 ft. boards 14.00
12 side poles 6.00
5 center poles 5.00
1 umbrella stake .50
14 small stakes 2.00
10 water pails 3.50
2 candy tops and wall 40.00
4 ice cream trays 2.00
10 pop trays 5.00
2 water kegs 2.00
1 water can 2.00
2 sledge hammers 3.50
1 wash tub 1.25
1 gasoline burner 5.00

Circuses of any great size and success were comprised of the workingmen or roust-abouts, the performers, the official staff and other white-collar workers. The former group of employees outnumbered the others, and, according to John M. Staley, the latter groups were the prominent employees of the circus; next came the butchers of the candy department. (10) It has been written that, "To be a candy butcher or to operate one of the concession stands was a sign of success. Men were hired every day as in other work departments. Where men were chosen they were above the run-of-the-mill working man. " (11) Staley was a candy butcher on the Ringling circus; he also worked with three of the well-known boss butchers, namely, Sid Reuben, Frank Shaffer and Lea Cook. Barnum & Bailey employed Shaffer before the merger with the Ringling Circus. (12).

In 1890 Sells Brothers & S. H. Barrett's Combined Circus route book lists one candy car as part of their circus train. The circus maintained at least one candy wagon on the midway, another near the side show and at least one, sometimes two, in the menagerie tent leading to the big top.

When the Adam Forepaugh-Sells Brothers Circus opened 1911 in Vincennes, Indiana, Will J. Farley, the reporter, wrote (13): "Before we enter the tent, let me pause again to congratulate Charles Bell upon the attractiveness of his candy stand. His pink lemonade had the circus color and flavor, and none of the 'Cy Perkinson' or 'Little Willes' could pass it by."

Campbell-Bailey-Hutchinson Circus and Wild West converted an old Orton cage wagon into a candy wagon in 1920.

Members of the circus crew were a loyal and closely-knit group. In October 1894, Dan Lester, a singing clown, with the F. F. Davis Mammoth Empire Show, became ill with the dreaded pneumonia. He left a note in his dressing tent, and entered a hospital at Buffalo, New York. Every performer and member of the candy stand signed his or her name on a card, and along with a cash donation, sent it to him.

The circus was not without incidents of crime. The circus employees themselves usually handled these. One such incident occurred at Murray City, Ohio, in August 1902. Dan Lester sang with Sun Brothers World's Progressive Shows in 1902. The show and concert were over, but trouble was expected. Al Lynch, privilege man, was about to take down the candy tent, when about 150 or 200 men, some of whom were drunk, surrounded him. They attacked by consuming all his lemonade, took his popcorn and pulled his cap down over his eyes. The "governor," George Sun, saw what was happening and the cry went out, "Hey Rube!" Help was forthcoming almost immediately and the night was saved.

One of the early candy butchers on the Gentry-Patterson Circus (1923-1925) was Edward C. Brown. During the 1922-1923 winter he was also in charge of the cookhouse at quarters at Paeola, Kansas. The tenting season of 1924 found him chef on the advance car as well as superintendent of candy stands. He had a great deal of responsibility because concessions were a large part of the circus, then and today.

Art Thorpe reported that for the 1923 season on the lot of the Sparks Circus all concessions -- such as sandwiches, soft drinks, ice cream, frozen custard and candy -- were usually sold for just five cents. He was in charge of purchases, stocking and billing in the concession department.

Charles H. Johnston (14) of Los Angeles remembered a great deal about the activities concerning the candy wagon and was most gracious in supplying many facts included herein. He was on the Al G. Barnes Circus between 1928 and 1938 and was in charge of the candy wagon, No. 85, which usually carried the candy stands plus other items associated with concessions. Old No. 85 was a heavy wagon and was usually loaded with the remaining stock not sold during the previous day's sales as well as the stands. Items included bales of peanuts, candy, Cracker Jack, wrapped popcorn, ice cream cones, cones for popcorn and novelties such as balloons and palm leaf fans. Orange syrup for making orange drinks and Dixie paper cups were also part of the supplies. Candy and fans were other big sellers then.

Johnston saw to it that at least a day's supply of merchandise was brought from the train to the circus lot each day. It was not uncommon to sell 150 cases (5,000 boxes) of Cracker Jack on a good day in an enthusiastic city. Thousands of bags of peanuts were sold to circus patrons, who, in turn, supplied elephants with their favorite treat. Candy sales often "went through the roof” on a good day with resulting high profits. (15) Usually one concessionaire or candy butcher acted as cashier at the concession stand in the menagerie tent or midway area.

Either the boss butcher or the boss concessionaire prepared all of the orders for new supplies of candy and other items. Johnston (16) went into town and sent the necessary telegrams for orders, and it was his responsibility to pick up the merchandise at the local Railway Express Office or Post Office. (17) The items were often stored in the possum belly of a rail coach or a concession wagon. Johnston tried to keep his suppliers aware of the route of the show so as to be able to expedite delivery, etc. The Railway Express shipments usually came via regular scheduled railroad passenger trains, seldom via freights.

Usually members of the concession staff were furnished both a berth on the train and meals in the cook tent on the lot. (18) With the advent of the motorized circus, these gents often drove their own vehicle or, more likely, accompanied another employee. In the case of Ringling Brothers, the Miller Brothers concession van was usually carried on one of the circus trains.

It was often difficult to hold a good boss candy butcher for more than a couple of tenting seasons. If the butcher remained with the same circus more than one season, it was often customary during Johnston's time for the butcher to be given work on a commission basis-ten percent of total sales with a 5% holdback. (19)

The year 1938 was the last season for the AL. G. Barnes Circus. It joined Ringling-Barnum in July, at Redfield, South Dakota, as a result of the untimely strike against the latter circus at labor conscious Scranton, Pennsylvania. Johnston (20) wrote that the circus carried two candy wagons after the merger. Wagon No. 85 was considered a baggage wagon that was assigned to the concession department; the wheels were steel-tired, (21) and it was spotted near the marquee for the big top and a second one (Ringling) was near by. An additional Ringling concession wagon was the so-called "ice house"; and it was the name given it and a small tent was adjacent to it. Nothing was sold the public from this wagon. At the close of the 1938 season, it was shipped to Peru, Indiana (22) and eventually sent to Sarasota, Florida, Ringling winter quarters and destroyed there in the early 1940s.

Sells-Floto Circus owned wagon No. 85 between 1929 and 1932; in 1924 their concession tent measured 12' by 18'.

Charles Pelke was with Ringling Brothers Circus from 1915 to 1922; in 1922 he was superintendent of concessions with Sells-Floto Circus. He was with the latter circus until 1932. Teddy Williams was in charge of the frozen custard with Sells-Floto. Pelke joined the Al G. Barnes Circus from 1933 to 1938. He married Mabel Ward, a member of the Flying Wards, on January 21, 1924, in Chicago; the couple lived at 4601 Dover Street in the latter City. (23)

Frank Gavin served in many capacities with various circuses starting in 1914. He was superintendent of concessions as well as manager of candy stands in 1923, 1924 and 1925 on Sells-Floto Circus. In 1922, he was a member of the executive staff of the John Robinson Circus. For many years candy wagon No. 64 carried concession department items as well as candy stand equipment on the Sells-Floto Circus; this wagon remained in service well into the early 1940s.

Earl Chapin May, one of the first writers of circus history, (24) revisited the white tops in the early 1920s and talked with Gavin. (25) May later wrote that he continued to prod Gavin to tell him about "the good old days," so finally, Gavin gave in to May's request (26): "The gross income of my department now runs close to ten percent of the gross income of the Big Show. If the Big Show has a bad day, as manager of the candy department, I have a bad day. If the big show does well, so do I. There is so little variation in the ratio between the big show business and the candy-butcher business that I can tell after I have counted up at night within a few dollars of what the ticket wagon had taken in. If the ticket wagon total for the day is $12,000, my total for the day will be $1,200.00.

"The people who come to see our show spend between $200,000 and $250,000 a year with the candy butcher. But I couldn't reach that season's gross if I did not understand something about the psychology of color. This applies especially to bottled drinks, popcorn bricks, and balloons. The bright-colored drinks sell the best; red first, yellow next and white last. The candy butcher had to produce or get out of the concession business.

"If I had checked in that afternoon after only selling a part of one box [brick popcorn bars] and [another boss butcher on the Ringling Show] had sold four or five boxes, he would have been as mad as a pistol."

Frank Gavin went on to explain (27): "They [butchers] sure have to work for their money. They operate on a salary and commission basis, mostly commission with board and Pullman space such as it is, and is free. Some of them make $3,000 or more a week, they can't do it and loaf on the job. Farm boys are more apt to be more honest than city boys. At least that's my experience but we watched them pretty close. Mrs. Gavin checks them in and out of the supply stand if they are working in the big top. I check them frequently on the outside stands. They have no chance to cheat us. But if we watch any of them cheating our customers, out they go. And they meet a great deal of temptation.

"If the candy butcher can't build up a repeat business, he will starve to death. The old slogan around the white tops used to be 'we are here today and gone tomorrow.' Now circuses operate on the principle: 'We're coming back here next season."'

Frank Gavin recalled further how the attitude of the candy butcher, the public and the circus had changed over the years (28): "One afternoon I bought ten cents' worth of peanuts from a young man in white coat and cap who was working the seats with Sells-Floto Circus. The performance was at its most thrilling stage. The young man gave me fifteen cents in change. I dropped ten cents of it through the seats to the grass beneath. Both of us looked at the bright, thin dime, lying four feet below my perch. It was my dime if I was willing to retrieve it, which I was not. The young man in the white coat and cap was in a hurry. He slipped me another dime. 'I'll take the loss,' he said. At the conclusion of the performance, the dime still lay there on the circus lot grass. I suppose some canvas man finally found it. Times have changed around the white tops.

"A few years ago that butcher-boy who took his ten-cent loss because of my carelessness would have spoken rudely to me and told me to go hence. Or he might have charged me double price. Now, every boy working the seats or behind the candy stand counters wears in his cap a legend showing the price for which his wares are sold. And the boys are clean and courteous. How come? Is the circus business losing its old tang? Are you cutting out the rough stuff? All things change in this world, even circuses. The intelligent critic who is forever telling you that all circuses are alike is wrong. All circuses are alike in that no circus is complete without the clown, the elephant and the candy butcher. Omit one of these standard features and circus patrons would demand their money back. But we live in an age of demanding quality, quantity and prompt service. Hence circuses are not like they used to be. Where in the old days, the towners on the blue seats and reserves were content with one bull that sat up in a tub, now they must have a herd of ponderous pachyderms. Where lone George Conklin or Jules Tournour once tickled them with a clown song, there must be forty Merry Andrews kicking up their heels, and where any kind of food or drink went, at any price, on the circus seats or on the circus lot, us candy butchers now have to give people the goods and give them straight. Gavin was referring to George Conklin's brother, Peter Conklin, the great songster of the sawdust ring. Circus folks are just a lap ahead in the march of progress, that's all."

Jacks usually supported the candy stands and counters, and often product banners hung from the front side of the counter to alert the public as to what was for sale. The menagerie tent stands, together with the sideshow tents, poles and counter boards were all loaded on to the sides of the candy wagon (or concession wagon); iron tent stakes and accessory roping were put into the possum belly near and under the rear of the wagon. Usually one candy butcher was the boss butcher and he acted as cashier. He was often the man who had been at the job and with the circus for several good seasons. In other words, he was the one the management could rely on to return for another season. There was usually a rapid turnover of candy butchers, just as in many fast-food operations today.

Staley writes that the card on the butcher's cap also stated "Pay no more!" (29) This warning sign was sort of a big joke, according to Staley, who, himself, was a candy butcher. It seems that the butchers often charged whatever the traffic would bear, and, "when asked by a circus goer why they were being charged more than the sign on the cap read, answered, "That was the price outside at the afternoon performance," if it was now the evening performance. (30) During the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s, some of the remaining tented circuses had difficulty getting the candy butcher to charge only the printed price on the cap, The fact that 10 cents was marked on his cap did not always mean that the butcher abided by it. Some butchers would often charge 10 cents on some lower bleachers while higher up, lo and behold, the price was 15 cents or even 25 cents. This unethical practice became a nightmare for not only the boss butcher, but for management and owners, but eventually things settled down. Ringling did everything in its power to prevent such things from happening on its circus lot.

John Hanson, a former band member of Sells-Floto-Buffalo Bill Circus (1914-1915) under Karl King as bandmaster, recalled (31): "The candy butchers sold candy and cigarettes, and in those days the cigarette companies put coupons in each pack of cigarettes and these were redeemable. The box butcher would often remove the coupons from the packs before the seat butchers went out onto the seats, and as a result he amassed a large number of coupons; he redeemed them himself for various gifts and one such butcher nearly furnished his home with furniture because of his dishonest tactics.

Hanson indicated that most honest circus and carnival owners and managers frowned on such practices, but it was difficult to control.

As time passed the nature of the candy sold changed and the packaged candy bar with its colorful wrapper and boxes of chocolates came into vogue. In addition all sorts of bags of soft and hard candy appeared in an ever-expanding market. The Billboard was crowded with ads. Small boxes of chocolates came from the Universal Theater Concession company which contracted with the Al. G. Barnes Circus, Sparks, Hagenbeck-Wallace, Robbins Brothers, Sells-Floto, Barnum & Bailey, and many others for this type of novelty packaged candy. Chester Pelke of Sells-Floto worked out arrangements for all of the above circuses; the home base of this firm was Chicago. (32) The Brody Novelty Candy Package Company, Inc. was a candy company located in New York; it, too, supplied many circuses with this type of candy in 1929 and thereafter. (33) Park and Tilford, a manufacturer of chocolates, was the only seller of a packaged candy at the Madison Square Garden during the New York City engagement of the Ringling-Barnum Circus. One of their candy butchers tells the following about the engagement there (34): "About half an hour after the doors at each performance had been opened this man would bring a case of chocolates into the arena. He would take out six or eight boxes of chocolates push the case off the aisle and then would take a look at the sections of seats on both sides of the aisle he was going to work. Shortly he would start up the steps, always picking out young couples, if possible. Then, he would 'mitt' a box of chocolates into the lap of a girl or young lady. If she tried to give it back he would keep going up the steps very slowly. He would follow the same procedure until he reached the last row. He would then return to the first row from the aisle and start to collect from the men. He also did this slowly. Should he make a sale off the first couple, and then he had it made all the way to the last row. Then he would move over to the next aisle and start all over again until he had made a complete circle of the arena and box seats. He only sold the Park & Tilford choice chocolates in the Garden."

The Curtis Candy Company, makers of the delicious "Baby Ruth" candy bar supplied circus concessionaires with the bar. The candy bar was not named for Babe Ruth, the home run king (1927-1998); the name honors the daughter of President and Mrs. Grover Cleveland who was endearingly referred to as "Baby Ruth." A company that is now a part of the chocolate giant, Nestle's, USA, introduced the bar in the early 1920s. (35) This firm has no historical documents that indicate circus butchers or vendors purchased candy directly from the home office, but rather it was obtained through candy wholesalers. We know that the "Baby Ruth" bar was sold on circuses because candy butchers were supplied with coats with the name of the candy bar on them.

In like manner, Mars marketed the "Milky Way" for the first time in 1923. By 1930 "Snickers" appeared, and in 1932 the familiar "3 Musketeers" filled grocery shelves. Again the company is unable to document direct sales of their candy bars at the point of origin to the circus candy butcher or his boss. All three bars are still made today. There is little question that these bars were and are favorites at circuses across America.

C. P. Fox and Tom Parkinson provide a candid look at the sales pitch for boxes of candy in their intriguing book, The Circus in America (1969): (36) "With nearly everyone in their seats and only a few stragglers coming from the menagerie into the big top, the ticket seller bandsmen disappeared. A hush fell over the audience, the performance was about to start. Now the announcer stepped to the center and everyone anticipated the first thrill of the circus.

"But that is not what the man proclaimed. Instead he announced that, 'In a few weeks the Casey Candy Company of Chicago, Illinois, will place on the market a new confection.' It would be available at your favorite candy, gift and department stores at two dollars per half-pound box. But as a special introductory offer, arranged through the generosity of the circus, the company was able to offer the candy here and now at a more favorable price.

"Furthermore, each box would contain some gift of value. There was a wide range of gifts including 'Mickey Mouse wrist watches, Kodak cameras, nylon hose for the ladies,' and who knows what all. The circus had allowed just ten minutes for this introductory advertising offer, according to the announcer, and for this brief period agents 'will pass among you, offering the prize candy at just twenty-five cents a box.'

"At that cue a battalion of white-coated concession men with bulky cases of candy moved toward the seats. Holding high a handful of candy boxes, they asked who would be first, and the man at the center again was saying, 'Mickey Mouse wristwatches, Kodak cameras, and nylons for the ladies!

"Invariably the response to this candy pitch was tremendous. Children and adults alike clamored for the attention of the vendors. They pushed quarters at him as fast as he could take them, and the man at the center was saying: 'There's a winner of a wristwatch. Hold it high, sir, so all can see; over there's a camera and here is a pocketknife; all you winners hold your prizes high.' There were prizes, even some as described by the announcer, but more often they were paper novelties or plastic toys. The candy was not very good.

"It made no difference. The vendors soon exhausted their first supplies and went down to the center poles for new cases. Often people who had bought a box the first time now wanted a second. Still the man at the center kept up his patter, and still the audience bought. But as the time grew short and the edge was off the market, he had one more volley to fire. Excitedly he called to his vendors and breathlessly ordered them to 'Stop the sales. Come down out of the seats.' Now, he explained to the audience, because there still seemed to be a few doubters among his listeners, he had special instructions for his salesmen. 'Set aside the case you have now,' he said loudly. 'Take now those special cases, the ones with the heavy boxes, the ones with the bigger prizes.' Then he explained to the audience that only three minutes remained. Now for the third time the vendors swarmed into the audience, nearly bending under the weight of those heavier boxes.

"Again the audience bought. Again the boxes and the quarters flowed freely. Again there were more wristwatches, nylons, cameras, paper novelties and plastic toys. When it seemed the audience had been worked heavily enough and sales might slacken, the announcer declared the time was up, that unfortunately the circus management required the vendors to pull out. The candy pitch was over."

The candy stand in a circus of any size -- such as Barnum & Bailey, Ringling Brothers, Sells-Floto, Hagenbeck-Wallace, Robbins, and many more -- was in the menagerie tent with the animal cages lined up along one side of the tent; and along the opposite side (for at least a portion) the elephants held forth - a great attraction to "children of all ages." Between the center poles at one end was a big candy stand. The giraffes and their wagons, camels, and zebra were also spotted in the vicinity of this all-important stand.

However, there were usually concession stands on the outside of the main tents. Fox and Parkinson have provided an excellent description of that area. (37) "Outside on the midway again, the opposite edge was lined with concession stands and ticket wagons. First was a lemonade stand where large glass tanks of pink or green lemonade were visible. There were castle-like towers made of Cracker Jack boxes and huge wicker baskets containing striped sacks of peanuts. Odors of onions and grease rose from the hot plate where a spatula-wielding attendant hawked his wares. Another stand might offer creamy frozen custard and still another sold cotton candy, that super concoction spun into a huge colored ball that melted away to nothing when eaten. If the peanuts were few or the ice cream drippy or the cotton candy sticky, it really did not seem to matter.

"At the head of the midway was the novelty stand. This was a huge trunk opened to reveal its inventory of flags and canes and whips and birds on a string. Little kegs were set alongside the trunk to hold added supplies of circus novelties. Out of all this flashing color surely something was bound to attract the eye of every little tyke that passed the stand. The novelty man was not above placing one of his products into the hand of a six-year-old, knowing full well the child would cry if his prize were taken away. Maybe, just maybe, the parent would conclude he would rather buy the toy whip than hear the tearful wail.

"The candy butcher was usually well shaven with a clean set of work clothes each morning. The management furnished the coveralls and these were picked up at the end of each day and sent to the laundry to be picked up by the concession department the next day. The candy butcher also wore a white jacket and on his head was a white box-like hat with a card attached which carried the price of the item being sold."

In pre-railroading days, Ringling Brothers employed George Zeisinger as the man in charge of candy stands and sales in 1887.52 This was the first time after the founding of the circus in 1884 that candy, candy stands or candy tops are mentioned, remembering that "candy" didn't just refer to candy as we think of it today. Albert (Al "Butch") Parsons ran the candy stands in 1890, and later, (53) but the concession privileges are not mentioned in 1891, 1892, or 1893 in circus documents that have been examined. (54) However, in 1911, Sid Ruben was superintendent of the candy wagon (#65). It was carried on circus flatcar #157 of the first or flying squadron, section of the train. The following year (1912), the same candy wagon (#65) ". . . cost $200.00 and it came to them after being rebuilt by the famous Moeller brothers of Baraboo, Wisconsin." (55)

In 1913, Ringling Bros. employed Sid Ruben again as their concession superintendent. (56)

Frank and Paul Miller had the concessions on Ringling-Barnum for a number of years, paying a flat yearly fee. In addition to the usual Coke, popcorn, Cracker Jacks, candy bars, floss and novelties the Millers operated the midway Frozen Delight truck and the grease joint.

According to the 1940 route book of Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Combined Circus their concession department was the Miller Brothers Concession Company, owned and operated by Frank and Paul Miller. (38) Frank and Paul had run the concessions for the HagenbeckWallace Circus in 1937. (39) In 1940, the candy department employed the following men: Morris Ashry, cashier; Robert Brown, stockman; Frank Morris, contact man; George Martin, side show; Ernest Hitchcock, manager of candy stand; Jack Besser, Nate Abraham, V. C. Kasher, menagerie candy stand butchers; Vernon Long, Eugene O'Connor, Eli Ducker, Eddie McAleer, Max Steinhart, Sam Gold, William White, Roy Wallace, Irving Dubin, James Brown, Stanley Gregory, Abe Starinsky, John Price, Jack Golden, Gus Signer, Arthur Katz, Howard Williams, Philip Billings, Al Rodd, John Kotec, seat men for candy sales.

The Ringling-Barnum route book for 194140 lists the name of Miller Brothers Concession Company as the Coastal Trading Company; the same was true for 1942. (41) It was an apt name since the circus wintered at Sarasota, Florida, at the time. Jack Harris is set down as Frank Miller's assistant. There was a candy top with Mel Hamblin as manager. The name of Max Miller (brother of Frank and Paul) appeared for the first time that season as cashier, and William Vining was in charge of stock supplies. W. Williams and P. McGriff were candy porters. There were menagerie candy stands with Jack Besser, Volney Kasher and Frank Morris as employees and Ernest Hitchcock operated a midway candy stand.

In 1943, the Miller brothers changed their company's name to the Miller Brothers Concession Company and managed Ringling's concession then and for many years thereafter. (42) The candy department employed the following (43): James Hamlin, manager of the candy top; J. Besser, No. 1 candy stand, A. Stryker, No. 2 candy stand; E. Hitchcock, No. 3 candy stand.

In 1944, Miller Brothers Concessions again was with the circus, with Frank C. and Paul Miller in charge; Jack Harris was their assistant. (44) Bill White, stockman; Pat Connolly, personnel; Jim Hamlin, manager of the candy top Max Miller, assistant cashier; Jack Besser, candy stand 1; Stryker, stand 2; Frank Miller, stand 3.

In 1948, Miller Brothers Concession Company was on the lot again with the following personnel (45): Mel Hamblin, manager, candy top; J. Legrys, assistant manager and W. White, stock man.

In 1949, their personnel were (46): Mel Hamblin, manager; W. Kornberg, checker and J. Sanders, stock man.

In 1951 (47), the route book lists only the Miller Brothers Concessions Company; there was a candy top. Concession workers were Jack Sanders, stock, and Tom Pence, checker. There were the usual all important menagerie stands.

In 1952, Frank C. Miller and Paul Miller were in charge of concessions with Jack Harris as their assistant. Others were (48): James Mel Hamblin, manager, candy top; Pat Connoly, midway stand manager; Jack Sanders. checker; Morris Gustow, manager, novelty department; L. Blumenthal, manager of candy; M. Gustow and V. LeBow, No. I stand in menagerie tent. L. Gustow, No. 2 stand; J. Besser, No. I stand menagerie; E. Vaughn, No. 3 stand; F. Morris, No. 2 stand menagerie; A. Zimmerman, No. 4 stand; S. Gregory, E. Zapata, B. Begun, C. Rodriguez, F. Dillon, R. Wallace, J. Lauriello, L. J. Stanley, M. White, J. Beaupre, Wm. White, F. Skura, J. Geiger, C. Rosal, F. Keating, A Rodrigues, C. Myarr, L. Fox, E. Couture and L. Leiden, seat butchers. R. Billinger, manager, two midway stands. Wm. Maguire, manager, No. 1; A. Anderson, manager, No. 2; W. Kloss and H. Carr, workers. 0. Vaughn, No. 3 stand; F. Morris, No. 2 Smith, manager, stock wagon; W. Coyle, manager, backyard stand. E. Hall and G. Allen, assistants; M. Short and C. Cherry, assistants; Max Miller, manager, Frozen Delight (Frozen Custard); F. Miller, J. Pilla, J. Molinari; P. Anderson, manager, Candy Floss stand No. 1; F. Voloesuk and C. Slaten, assistants; A. Christiani, manager, Candy Floss stand No. 2; G. Columbo, assistant; J. Littler, manager, popcorn; R. Swane, E. Pickett and H. Bush, helpers; J. Trosey, manager, Chameleon department (a very popular item); M. Healey and L. Rosenberg, assistants. There was also a soft drink concession.

The 1953 season again found the Millers in charge of overall concessions, with Jack Harris as their assistant. Other personnel were (49): Jas. Mel Hamblin, manager, candy top; Morris Ashry, checker, candy top; J. Wood, J. Anthony, soft drink department; J. Besser, manager, No. 1 menagerie stand; F. Morris, manager, No. 2 menagerie stand; Paul Fisher, manager, No. 1 midway stand, C. Young and F. Bell, assistants; S. Ventura, manager, candy stand; 0. Smith, manager, stock wagon; E. Hall, F. McCloud, G. Allen, assistants; Max Miller, manager, Frozen Delight, F. Mills, Wm. Carroll, G. Zolymi, assistants; J. Littler, manager, popcorn stand; H. Whitman, E. Pickett, R. Swain, R. Paul; assistants; P. Anderson, manager, No. 1 candy floss; H. Mansfield, J. T. Kelly, and R. Zoppis, assistant; A. Christiani, manager, No. 2 candy floss.

The season of 1954 (50) found Miller Brothers in place with the same upper echelon in charge as in 1953: Mel Hamblin, manager, candy top; M. Ashry, assistant manager; L. Blumenthal, manager, menagerie stand; J. Besser, Stand No. 1; F. Morris, Stand No. 2; H. Carter-purchaser of supplies, W. Powell, stock man. The midway stands had the following manager and assistants: Stand No. 1, F. Fisher; J. Clark, 0. Smith and H. Horton; Stand No. 2, G. Hart; D. McNelly and W. Jackson Stand No. 3, A. Powell and A Moore; Frozen Delight (Frozen custard) was still managed by Max Miller, with F. Mills, J. Reed, and H. Dickman as assistants. F. Skura managed Candy Floss, and J. T. Kelly and G. Ferroni were butchers. J. Trocey managed the chameleon department along with butchers, M. Healy and L. Rosenberg. There were twenty-four seat butchers. In 1953 there were 17 butchers, 25 in 1954 and 19 in 1955.

Miller Brothers Concessions, in 1955 (51), Frank C. Miller, Paul Miller, and Jack Harris, their assistant, was composed of the following departments: Novelty (M. Gustow, manager); Midway stands (Diner, W. Maguire, mgr., M. Moran and W. Schmitt), No. 1 stand, P. Fisher, mgr., C. Ballard, O. Smith, H. Somerset, No. 2 stand, W. Carroll, manager, O. Williams. Soft Drink Department, Popcorn Department, J. Littler, manager; J. Hayes, L. Lacella, R. Swain, R. Swinney. Menagerie Candy Stands, No. 1, J. Besser, No. 2, R. Morris, J. Guzman, Popcorn. Purchaser of Supplies, H. Carter. Stock Man, W. Powell; Frozen Delight, M. Miller, manager; F. Mills, J. Molinari and J. Reed; Candy Floss, F. Skura, manager; B. Kidd, A. Santaire and A. Schwatz, side show, C. Anderegg, There were seventeen seat butchers that year.

The various departments within Miller Brothers Concessions in 1956 were designated as

the novelty department (6 men), seat men (4), midway candy stands (dinner and two stands with a total of 9 men), stock wagon (3 men), soft drink (2 men), popcorn (5 men), backyard stand for performers (3 men), menagerie stands (3 men), purchaser of supplies, H. Carter and a stock man), frozen delight (custard) (4 men), candy floss (4 men), chameleon (4 men), side show stand (1 man), seat butchers (19 men). Equipment for all these departments required six wagons; these were carried in the first two sections of the circus train.

Concession wagon #65 appeared on Cole Bros. Circus in 1936; its companion wagon was #64, and it carried the confection known as frozen custard. (57) It was still with the Cole Bros. Circus in 1937 and continued to be used in 1938 as a concession wagon. (58) It was also used in 1939, 1940, and possibly in 1941; and certainly in 1944. In 1939, concession wagon #29 was loaded on flatcar #133 along with a Mack truck, frozen custard and a seat jack wagon. A second concession wagon, #46, was carried on the same flatcar in the Ringling train. Ringling's loading order for 1940 lists the second section of the train as carrying flat car #148 with the frozen delight wagon, the third section carried flat car #121 with concession truck 201, followed by car #116 with the novelty concession wagon, and flatcar #126 carried the candy concession truck. (59) When the circus departed its stand in Chicago on August 10, 1941, the loading order was flatcar #148 which held wagon #46 of the concession department and the second section carried #145 with the Frozen Delight concession truck; #129 novelty wagon and #48; on car #150 concession wagon #201 was carried on the third section of the train. (60) In 194261, the candy stand wagon was spotted between Gargantua's cage and the entrance leading into the big top from the menagerie tent. The same was true in 1943, 1944, and 1945. In the latter year, (62) Mel Hamlin was manager of the candy top. There were 28 butchers for the reserved and non-reserved seats in the Big Top. In 1946, there was also a candy top with Mel Hamlin as manager and 18 butchers. (63) That year concession wagons were numbered 46, 48, and 102 (candy); wagon #103 carried concession items as well as the backyard diner, and #107 carried concessions for themselves. Thus we see the sale of concessions was a big operation and an excellent money maker.

In 1947 (64), the candy top was manned by Mel Hamlin as manager, with R. Keadley as assistant and W. Whiting as stockman. There were 21 butchers on the seats. In 1950, the flatcar roster included (65):
Flatcar #116 concession stock wagon, #20
Flat car #150 concession wagon and side show panels
Flatcar #151 - concession stands, wagon #48
Flatcar #105 - concession wagon, #60 with concession supplies
Flat car #104 Frozen custard with no number

The following year (1951), flatcar #119 carried concession wagon #102 and wagon #48 with concession stands. (66)
The only wagon listed in 1952 (67) was #64 for the frozen custard concession vehicle on flatcar #229 (68).

The following year (1953), the loading order was (69):
Flatcar # 6 wagon # 81 (Float "Candy")
Flatcar #12 wagon # 48 (Miller Brothers concession truck)
Flatcar #13 - wagon #102 (Miller Brothers concessions)
Flatcar #10 - wagon #103 (Miller Brothers concessions)

The train in 1954 was loaded at Sarasota, Florida, with its destination Washington, D. C. The following loading roster is noted (70):
Flatcar #235 - Miller Brothers Concessions, Sarasota to Baltimore, Maryland, May 18-29
Flatcar #115 - Frozen Custard Concession
Flatcar #116 - Miller Brothers Concessions
Flatcar #118 - Miller Brothers Concessions

The next calendar year (1955) finds (71):
Flatcar #238, Frozen custard
Flatcar #120 - Wagon #103, Miller Brothers Concessions
Flatcar #120 - Wagon # 48, Miller Brothers Concessions

However, the route rook for that season lists the following train loading order (72):
First section
Wagon #102, Miller wagon #49, Popcorn
Wagon #103, Miller Brothers, custard - no number assigned

In 1956, Wagon #48, a Miller Brothers Concessions vehicle, along with midway joint vehicle. (73) Wagon #60 carried concession supplies as did wagon #120 (74):
Flatcar #103 - Wagon #102, Candy top
Flatcar #103 - Wagon #231, Concessions and side show canvas
Flat car #103 - Wagon #49, Popcorn sales and frozen custard

Ringling exhibited under tents for the last time in 1956.

In 1962, Coach #46 carried the candy butchers and other single men. Candy butchers had other chores around the lot besides hawking confection treats during the 1920s and early 1930s. A candy butcher with Ringling Brothers Circus in the 1920s related that (75): "Between shows when the other departments were resting, the butchers had to work until nearly time for the doors to open for the evening performance. It was a rush to freshen up for the people to come in, and shortly after to go on the seats vending their wares. After the big spectacle was over [in the afternoon], all the seat butchers would check in at the main concession stand. The men who sold peanuts, popcorn and Cracker Jack helped to tear down the outside stand and then load the candy wagon. After the butchers had sold all the ice cream [they could] and their equipment was stored away on one of the big top wagons [another of the candy wagons], the one candy wagon had already been sent to the railroad crossing to be loaded on the flatcars. Then all the butchers would have to wait until the night performance was over before they could start to tear down the big top."

Staley also wrote (76): "During World War One the Ringling Circus never exhibited on Sunday, so it was a day off for most of the circus personnel. Sid Rubin did not mind his men going to the hotel on their day off, but all the candy butchers and stand men had to make Sunday dinner in the cook house. Sid would always be sitting at his regular place at the staff table. The men had to pass his table to reach theirs. Anyone unlucky enough to miss a Sunday dinner would get a stiff penalty come Monday. All you had to do is ask me. I know as I missed a couple of times. The one I dreaded most was being in jail on the big stand in the menagerie. You had to do all the regular work that the other men performed, besides staying on the big top canvas crew."

During World War II, there was a severe shortage of manpower. They didn't try to recruit women in those days. The candy butchers, front door men, ticket sellers and ballet girls, as well as other butchers, had to help in other areas such as putting up and tearing down the big top. (77)

Candy plays a very prominent and satisfying role in the life of each one of us. The American circus recognized this early in its history, and the sale of candy became an important addition to the gate revenues. The candy bar, the Candy Kiss, the taffy roll and the package of gum have always been and always will be for sale at most circuses, whether outdoors or indoors. Many a boy or girl was introduced to this treat at the ever-moving, ever-changing world of the circus.

Notes

1. Kunzog, John, 1962. The One Horse Show Jamestown , New York, pp. 359-367 Used by permission of Catherine Wright, Jamestown, NY
2. Ibid ., p. 362
3. Ibid .
4. Ibid ., pp. 365-366
5. Bandwagon , Vol. 37 (5): 29
6. ibid .
7. Billboard , August 13, 1904, p. 7. Courtesy, Circus World Museum, Baraboo, Wisconsin
8. Route book of Barnum & Bailey Circus, 1888. Courtesy Circus World Museum, Baraboo, Wisconsin
9. Bandwagon , Vol. 12 (4), 1968, p. 13
10. Ibid., Vol. 39 (5), 1995, pp. 25-29
11. Ibid.
12. Ibid.
13. Billboard, May 6, 1911, p. 4
14. Personal communication with Charles H. Johnston, September 11, 1964
15. Ibid.
16. Ibid.
17. Ibid.
18. Ibid.
19. Ibid.
20. Ibid.
21. White Tops , Vol. 48 (6), 1975, p. 10
22. Bandwagon , Vol. 27 (2)
23. White Tops , Vol. 48 (6), 1975, p. 11; Billboard, February 2, 1924; and the Circus World Museum (5/1999).
24. Collier's, The National Weekly , April 4, 1925, pp. 13-14
25. Ibid.
26. Ibid.
27. Ibid.
28. Ibid.
29. Bandwagon , Vol. 39 (5): 28, 1995
30. Ibid.
31. Personal Interview with John Hanson
32. White Tops , Vol. 50 (1), 1977
33. Bandwagon, Vol. 8 (2), 1964
34. Ibid., Vol. 39 (5), 1995, p. 28
35. Personal communication with Nestle's, USA, 1999
36. Charles P. Fox and Tom Parkinson, The Circus in America , 1969
37. Ibid.
38. Route book of Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Circus, 1940:19-20
39. Ibid.
40. Ibid., 1941:19-20
41. Ibid., 1942:17-18
42. Ibid., 1943:19-20
43. Ibid.
44. Ibid., 1944
45. Ibid., 1948:32-33
46. Ibid., 1949:29
47. Ibid., 1951:29-30
48. Ibid., 1952:32-33
49. Ibid., 1953:41
50. Ibid., 1954:51
51. Ibid., 1955
52. White Tops , July-August 1933
53. Ibid.
54. Ibid.
55. Bandwagon, March-April, 1982
56. Ibid., Vol. 37 (2), 1993
57. Ibid., Vol. 10 (3), 1966
58. Ibid.
59. White Tops , Vol. 51 (2), 1978
60. Ibid., Vol. 51 (3), 1978
61. Ibid., Vol. 51 (4), 1978
62. Ibid., Vol. 55 (2), 1982
63. White Tops , Vol. 55 (6), 1982 and Route book of Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Combined Circus, 1946
64. Route book of Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Combined Circus, 1947, p. 32
65. White Tops , Vol. 61 (1), 1950
66. Ibid., Vol. 61 (4), 1988
67. Ibid., Vol. 62 (1), 1989
68. Ibid.
69. Ibid., Vol. 62 (3), 1989
70. Ibid., Vol. 62 (6), 1989
71. Ibid., Vol. 63 (4), 1990
72. Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Combined Circus, 1955: 75-77
73. White Tops , Vol. 53 (2), 1980
74. Ibid., Vol. 64 (1), 1991
75. Bandwagon, Vol. 39 (5): 26, 1995
76. Ibid., 27
77. Ibid., 27

Acknowledgments

Writing acknowledgments is the most pleasant part of writing histories; usually many individuals and institutions of various interests have provided data and information, including pictorial items, so that the research can be completed successfully. Personally, I have found such sources invaluable as not everyone has close, personal contact with a major circus research center.

Personal thanks and deep appreciation are extended to the following: To the late Tom Parkinson, circus historian, who, himself, was interested in many of the topics I have written about over the years; it was Tom who suggested I tackle many of them and this was in the mid-1950s when I used to visit him at the Billboard office and the Ringling office (Nat Green) in Chicago. Tom was a constant supporter and source of information; he freely shared information and data with me and many others. I owe him so very much.

To the late Robert Parkinson, circus archivist and historian of the Circus World Museum, Baraboo, Wisconsin, who provided working space and expertise in 1965, at a time when the library was still in its infancy; through his help and knowledge I gleaned a wealth of information.

To Fred Dahlinger, Jr., present Director of Collections and Research at the Circus World Museum, who has willingly provided answers to my many questions on various circus topics. His many kindnesses will not be forgotten.

To the following reference librarians and others at the following libraries, museums and companies:
National Archives and Record Service
Enoch Pratt Library, Baltimore, Maryland
University of North Carolina, Chapel Hall, N.C.
Ringling Brothers and Barnum and Bailey Combined Circus
Moorhead Public Library for Interlibrary Loans of the Billboard (1999)
Special "thank you" to Charles Johnston for his great interest and knowledge of the concession business in circuses of America.
To my wife, Jane, who has struggled with these circus histories as much as I have over the past couple of years; without her invaluable aid and know-how, these histories would not be completed today; her knowledge of the present day computer has made the task somewhat easier but it was still a huge job; thank you very much.
Special "thank you" to Lyle Nelson for transferring print data from one format to another.

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